This evening I set out to discover some of the beery delights of Poplar. Deposited by the 15 bus at Chrisp Street, I strode through the pedestrianised arcades of the market in anticipation, but this crawl was to begin with disappointment – the first two pubs on my list (the Festival Inn, 71 Grundy Street E14 6AD and Callaghan’s, 55 Chrisp Street E14 6LP) were closed. This would not do.
I retraced my steps, heading south to the Hope and Anchor (14 Newby Place E14 0AY). This was the putative third pub on this crawl but was now promoted to first up. There was nada on the hand pumps but a pint of refreshing Heineken can be had for £5.50. The lighting is of a dimness that’s ideal in a pub, with things being brightened somewhat by an early appearance of Christmas decorations. The hits of Phil Collins play out on the stereo and there’s a good crowd in. Almost everyone seems to know almost everyone else which is surely one of the hallmarks of a popular and proper local.
The George IV (7 Ida Street E14 6LT) is next, and here is a conundrum: is it open or is it closed? A couple of minutes’ observation determines that it is indeed open, albeit a bit quiet. With a small crowd around the bar and all the keg favourites (don’t be silly, it’s the East End, no cask here) it’s a pleasant enough place for a couple of pints of Kronenbourg at a reasonable £4.70. There is a pool table with an unambiguous sign: “Winner stays on is NOT a thing in this pub”. The gents situation is most unusual; a deep and extremely narrow alcove contains a single urinal that requires the user to stand at an angle with elbows touching the walls. Hand washing facilities can be found in the cubicle which would provide an interesting dilemma in the event that this was occupied. At the bar the conversation is about Christmas arrangements and presents for grandchildren.
I go for a short walk and end up at Bum Daddy’s – the Manor Arms (150 East India Dock Road E14 0BP). It’s quiet here although there’s some rugby on the telly and Stella for £4.50 with a few comings and goings. The windows are misted up with the cold outside. A regular of Eastern European extraction arrives and sups at his pint, bemoaning his lot: “I am working, and working, and working!” As a dull office drone I don’t have that problem today, yet I know how he feels.
I continue my quiet boozy deliberations. The Eastern European man puts some rock music on the jukebox, and turns to me: “I leave two credits, if you want…” he says, pointing at the jukebox. Is he sure?, I ask. “My gift to you!” he replies. I am not one to look serendipity in the face and step up to the challenge, ensuring the credits do not go to waste.
The Eastern European man leaves after a few pints and I take my leave a bit later, leaving only the barman and one other customer. On the bus heading back towards Aldgate I feel a tap on my shoulder as we arrive at a stop. It’s the barman, wishing me a good night. I’m not sure how quickly he closed the pub after I left to end up on the same bus as me, but I reciprocate with a thumbs up and wonder as I often do about where the trope of unfriendly Londoners comes from.
I hop off the bus just before we cross the New Road to head to a favoured and trusted curry venue – Lahore Kebab House (2-10 Umberston St E1 1PY) where I swiftly end up with my very favourite dishes of dry lamb and tarka dhal. There are obviously a great many fancier places to eat curry, but I love it here with its constant comings and goings, cricket on the telly and rather random service.
I cannot think how many times I have dined here. The lady who takes my payment has been here every time I have, and displays not one hint of recognition. Long may it continue.
